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WITH PROPER training and socializing, the Rottweiler can be a great
family pet, companion, herding dog, tracking dog, obedience dog, etc.
They are very loyal, dedicated, loving, beautiful and intelligent.
As a rule they do not bark a lot unnecessarily and they are generally
good watch dogs who will let you know when something's up.
With proper training and socializing they will enjoy and participate in
nearly any outdoor activity you desire. At the same time, WHEN
MATURE, a WELL EXERCISED Rottweiler is a very sedate house dog that
wants nothing more than to sleep on the bed or chew on a Nylabone.
However, they are not perfect and do have their down sides.
They are not mature until after 2 years of age and the average life
expectancy is only 8 - 10 years.
They are very susceptible to a wide range of cancers and they have a
poor immune system (particularly when young) and need a more
specialized vaccination schedule as a puppy in order to develop proper
immunity. They are also prone to contracting more viruses than
the average dog, especially when fed improperly.
They are susceptible to hip dysplasia, tearing cruciate ligaments and
heart problems as well as cancer.
They are strong willed and need LOTS of PROPER training and socializing
when young. IF you fail in your duties to select, train and
socialize them properly, they can be dangerous (sometimes
inadvertently) as adults. They are mouthy as puppies until
properly taught bite inhibition. Puppies also tend to have temper
tantrums. Similar to baby Grizzly bears!
Young dogs require a lot of very good food (poor quality food can cause
health problems) SOME young males CAN require as much as 8 - 10 cups of
excellent quality food per day, that's 2 - 2 1/2 lbs!
When shedding they leave black "mouse balls" everywhere.
Young dogs require a lot of exercise and need some form of work
(obedience, agility, herding, etc). They can be destructive if
bored or improperly housed.
They CAN be very dog aggressive especially if not spayed/neutered or if
not properly socialized.
They play hard and can easily injure someone unintentionally.
They also herd children and other animals and can bump, or nip them
while doing so without meaning harm.
It CAN be difficult to obtain homeowner's or renters insurance if you
own a Rottweiler.
If you are still interested in owning a Rottweiler, please read some of
these excellent books:
Rottweiler puppies are adorable little black
bear look
alikes! They are fuzzy, clumsy and just so cute!
However Rottweiler puppies are not for everyone, and
just because
you've had a puppy of another breed or mix breed does not mean you are
cut out for a Rottweiler puppy. This does not mean you are a
failure as a puppy parent, it just means you are smart enough to admit
that perhaps you should choose a young adult or an adult rottweiler as
your companion.
I have spoken to A LOT of people who desire a puppy
for their
home. Some of the problems that have become major issues for new
Rottweiler puppy owners (and things you SHOULD give serious thought to)
are:
1) Eight to sixteen week old puppies have very
little bowel and bladder
control. What this means is that the new baby will most likely
have to be taken outside to potty at least once in the night, 2 am
seems to be a popular time. (If your pup is not used to being
crated then it will likely howl for 20 minutes to 2 hours before
falling asleep!) These pups also cannot "hold it" while you are
gone all day at work (there are exceptions but we are speaking in
general terms here). Ideally a human is home at least part of the
day to take the little one out every 2 to 3 hours. If this is not
possible then a room should be made puppy proof and a crate with the
door off in one corner and newspapers on the floor. Baby pups
need to potty after waking up, before being put in the crate, after
coming out of the crate, drinking, eating and playing. What
usually causes the most problems is the playing because they are
distracted and then all of a sudden HAVE to go now! When playing
with a baby you must take them out every 30 to 45 minutes to avoid
accidents. ANY TIME you take the puppy out to potty You MUST wait
for them to go both pee and poop even if it takes 30 minutes for them
to find just the right spot. They have to go out even during a
thunder storm or in bitter winter wind..
2) Biting. Rottweiler puppies are VERY mouthy!
They are very
bitey and growly until they learn otherwise. They can act very
aggressive with certain toys and things like rawhide and pigs ears
should be avoided because they just cause unnecessary problems.
They also chase down kids and bite their hands and legs and toes, they
grab the cats, they bite the older dogs face, they bite your hands
etc... Many pups can learn to inhibit their biting by you
hollering OWW! really loud every time they bite. Other pups need
to be lightly clipped under the chin with an open hand while you say
"no bite". REMEMBER if what you are doing does not seem to be
sinking in after 4 or 5 times then stop! It just is not working
and you need to try something else. Some of them are good all day
and become biting monsters after 7 pm. Some of them become little
sharks if they don't get enough exercise or people time. Some
just need to be taken out to potty and then calmly put in their crate
for a nap. This is a perfectly normal stage for a Rottweiler
puppy and if handled properly will be mastered by 6 months of
age. (then they move on to jumping on people and chewing on your
furniture!) It is a VERY frustrating and annoying time and this
is one of the things that turn perfectly normal people and even some
not very rottweiler knowledgable trainers totally off of rottweilers or
to label them as aggressive/dominant etc.. which is certainly not the
case! This stage requires TONS of persistence and patience.
3) Rottweiler pups are very smart and this gets them
into lots of
trouble! They are into anything and everything not tied
down. Average puppy proofing of your home will not be
sufficient! Anything your puppy should not be into should be
protected or placed above 3 feet. Remember if anything gets broke
or chewed it IS NOT the puppies fault! It is yours because you
did not pick it up or protect it enough. Pups should never be
left alone in a room, ever! You can not use the phrase "he should
have known better" until he is OVER 2 YEARS OLD!!
4) Rottweilers mature VERY slowly! The
housebreaking, crate
training and chewing may be over with by 12 months old. But the
rottweiler is a puppy til it is 2 years of age! They require AT
LEAST every other day training sessions from puppyhood on. They
also require alot of exercise. Though rottweilers under 2 should
never be jogged or biked they should get lots of play time every day
and walking is fine as long as you know the distance your pup can
easily walk without getting exhausted. Over tired pups easily
injure their joints and ligaments. If your young rottweiler is
being especially wild and naughty then it needs more exercise and
training sessions. Boredom and underplaying are the two biggest
causes of bad behavior!!
5) Rottweilers also mature very slowly
physically. This means
that they should be kept lean. If they don't have a visible waist
or you cannot easily feel their ribs the dog is way too fat!
Rottweilers do not finish filling out width wise til 3 or 5 years old!
Overfeeding WILL NOT make them fill out faster but will make them more
susceptible to hip dysplasia, shoulder ailments and torn knee
ligaments.
IF after reading all of the above you still want a
puppy then by all
means get one. But remember the commitment you are making to this
dog. You are promising to properly care, train , feed and
exercise it while keeping in mind all the above things that make this
dog a Rottweiler!
Being a breeder, owner, trainer and a boarding
kennel manager I
get to see or hear about all the problems teenage Rottweilers can bring
to a home and all the love and joy as well.
Before adding a teenage or preteen (6 months to 2
years of age)
rottweiler to your home Please do alot of research. Not only on
the Rottweiler as a breed but also into your own lifestyle and
expectations for a dog.
Teenage and preteen Rottweilers are full of
themselves and then
some! At about 6 months of age they stop being bitey little fuzz
balls and start to really get into trouble! This is the age when
they start jumping up on people, getting into the trash and chewing on
your furniture. If not trained , played with and exercised enough
and if not confined properly when unsupervised they can destroy a home
or apt in one day!!
I generally recommend that Rottweilers up to 2 years
of age (and
sometimes beyond) be crated when not supervised to keep them out of
mischief. Some of the naughty things teenage rottweilers have
done to other people's homes when left loose and unsupervised
are: Chewed the corners off 100 phonographs; Chewed up not one
but 2 new pairs of shoes; Chewed up every single pair of dirty
underwear in the laundry basket; torn the linoleum up from the entire
kitchen floor; chewed the legs off the dining room table; dug up and
chewed in half the satellite dish cable; taken the vinyl siding off the
back side of the house and chewed the wood molding off several places
in the home. Amazing isn't it? EVERY SINGLE one of these
incidences could have been avoided by simply crating or supervising the
young rottweiler.
Teenage rottweilers are very intelligent. So
much so that it is
sometimes a huge burden for the owner! These pups can and do get
bored very easily and bored dogs are destructive dogs. The more
intelligent the dog (of any breed) the more easily bored and then
destructive they become. So if you want a dog that will just
patiently lie around your home or yard until you invite it to do
something; then perhaps an older well trained rottweiler or a dog of
another breed is for you!
Teenage rottweilers also like to see just how far
they can push the
rules and still get away with the behavior! If one day they
experiment with a tiny growl when they are eating and people back away,
then this encourages them to greater extremes. If they shove you
out of the way to get out of the car and you say nothing then they will
continue to do that! They learn bad things way quicker than the
things you want them to learn!! Going to obedience classes or
training the dog yourself consistently and often keeps life in
order. Rules are not made for your dog to break. Rules must
be set and enforced. Physical force is not required as a rule BUT
consistency, fairness and firmness are musts! If you are a really
laid back, non confrontational or soft natured person then a Rottweiler
ESPECIALLY a teenager is NOT the dog for you!
Rottweilers mature mentally very slowly! The
housebreaking, crate
training and chewing may be over with by 12 months old. But the
rottweiler is a puppy til it is 2 years of age! They require AT
LEAST every other day training sessions. They also require alot
of exercise and mental stimulation. Though rottweilers under 2
should never be jogged or biked they should get lots of play time every
day and walking or swimming is fine as long as you know the distance
your teenager can easily walk or amount of swimming he can do without
getting exhausted. Over tired pups and teenagers can easily
injure their joints and ligaments. If your young rottweiler is
being especially wild and naughty then it needs more exercise and
training sessions. Boredom and underplaying and lack of mental
stimulation are the three biggest causes of bad behavior!!
Rottweilers also mature very slowly
physically. This means that
they should be kept lean. If they don't have a visible waist or
you cannot easily feel their ribs the dog is way too fat!
Rottweilers do not finish filling out width wise til 3 or 5 years
old! Overfeeding WILL NOT make them fill out faster but will make
them more susceptible to hip dysplasia, shoulder ailments and torn knee
ligaments.
IF after reading all of the above you still want a
teenage or preteen
rottweiler then by all means get one. But remember the commitment
you are making to this dog. You are promising to properly care,
train, feed and exercise it for it's entire life (8 to 12 years) while
keeping in mind all the above things that make this dog a Rottweiler!
If you have a Rottweiler and find that you can not
keep it for whatever
reason, DO NOT take it to the animal shelter except as a last
resort. FIRST call the dog's breeder, ethical breeders will take
back dogs that they have bred. If the breeder for some reason can
not or will not take back the dog- call a Rottweiler Rescue.
Regardless
of if you want a
pet, a dog for some working venue or a show dog the selection of the
breeder will be the most important step in your puppy buying purchase
I will NOT address titles of the parent
dogs, other than to say
that the parents should hold a title in the venue YOU wish to
participate in (ie if you want to show in conformation, at least 1
parent should be pointed or hold some show rating or title, if you want
to compete in obedience at least 1 parent should be obedience titled,
if you want a working ranch dog then at least 1 parent should either be
one or hold herding titles etc...)
FIRST the breeder themselves should seem
trustworthy to you. They should be
willing to answer your questions and no question should be deemed
stupid. They should be a person that you will want a friendship with
for the life of the dog AND they should be commited to remaining in
contact with buyers for the life of the dog.
SECOND they should be MORE than willing to
give you email and/or phone
contacts of previous purchasers as references
THIRD If you go to their home, it should
be fairly clean (though may be
cluttered) and the dog areas should not be covered with feces (1 or 2
piles fine but not days worth). Dog crates should be clean. Dogs should
not smell of urine or feces. Dogs and pups should not be afraid of
their owner nor trying to kill visitors.
FOURTH (and even if "all" you want is a pet this
MUST still be
done) ALL dogs (Rottweilers) used for
breeding (talking dogs LIVING in the US
or Canada) should AT MINIMUM have OFA certified hips, JLPP DNA
test, and a CARDIOLOGIST
(or specialist) OFA cardiac clearance (NOT a practitioner one- look at
the number C=cardiologist, S=specialist, P=practitioner) . Elbows
should be OFA evaluated as well and should not have UAP, FCP or OCD.
and DJD rating should not be higher than a 1.
Imported dogs that are LIVING and
being bred in the US and Canada
should have been redone using OFA (hips/elbows) and this is a
REQUIREMENT if the breeder is an ARC member.
FIFTH all pups should be no less then 7
weeks old when purchased, preferably
8+ weeks old (and in some states 8 weeks is the legal minimum) and
should come with a veterinarian issued health certificate (even if this
is not a State requirement)
SIXTH DO NOT ever buy from a pet store or
broker of any kind. Even if their
pups do not come from a traditional "puppy mill" they will not have
been produced by an ethical breeder because ethical breeders do not
sell to brokers or pet stores (and they also do NOT sell them at flea
markets etc)
SEVENTH IF the breeder does not ask you a
list of questions and seem to screen
buyers, walk away. Screening buyers is just 1 indication of caring
about their pups for life. ALL purchase conditions and
requirements (including what happens to the
dog if you can no longer keep it)should be laid out in a purchase
contract which you must READ before signing and if it contains anything
you do not agree with do not sign it.
EIGHTH websites are for browsing and
information purposes only and should NOT
be a PRIMARY factor into your decision process
NINTH be aware that well bred pups in the
US average $900 - 1500 and if the
selling price is significantly above that for an 8-12 week old
pup, you should probably walk away under MOST circumstances
TENTH NON refundable deposits are also a
warning flag. While keeping a
portion of a deposit if you bail on a pup you committed to is fine,
keeping an entire deposit is not (although keeping the deposit until
that pup is resold is normal)
REMEMBER
these are just variations of the breed. They are NOT rare or more
valuable. They are just DIFFERENT!
Long
coated and wire coated/bearded/furnished are both common coat
variations in
the breed.
Long Coats
Dogs with long coats
tend to be very soft which is an incorrect coat texture (short coat
dogs can also be soft and many -though not all- of these are found to
carry the long coat gene).
The coat length can vary between barely heavier than average (and
discernable ONLY by DNA test!) to Show
Golden Retriever or even Newfoundland length.
The length of a dog's
breeches/pants, neck ruff or belly hair is not a good indicator of
carrier status because many lines of normal heavier coated dogs that
are clear of the long coat gene entirely can have longer hair in these
areas.
There is a DNA test
for this coat and the
results will be clear, carrier or affected. Two clears cannot produce a
long coat and as this is a pure uncomplicated recessive gene it takes
two dogs with
the gene (either carrier or affected) to produce it.
Normal coated dogs
have 2 normal length coat genes, Carrier dogs will have 1 normal length
coat gene and 1 long coat gene, Affected dogs will have 2 long coat
genes.
Long coat is a TOTALLY
separate gene from the wire and a dog CAN have BOTH genes!
Wire Coated, Bearded/furnished Dogsclick here to open
the page dedicated to this coat variation
The proper
Rottweiler coat is coarse/hard (as described from the very first breed
standard) and the wire coat gene plays a very
important role in this. Many dogs carry this gene and the more shed out
a dog is the easier this is to feel in the BODY coat. The BODY coat
gene is related to the face/chest/leg/foot furnishing gene but appears
to be separate- meaning a dog can have a proper hard coat and no
furnishing gene OR can have a soft incorrect coat and the furnishing
gene OR have both a proper hard coat and the furnishing gene!
Historically, the
presence of a slight beard, and/or "wire coat" at the brow, mouth line
or mouth corner has been thought to be an indicator of proper hard coat
and MANY famous historic Rottweilers either actually had a slight beard
(Ives v Eulenspeigel for just one example) or were known to throw them
(Dack vd Meirei is one). This can in fact be true as
both the proper hard, wire like but flat, body coat and the
face/chest/leg/foot wire coat ("furnishings") are quite often combined
together. Sometimes too though the "furnishings" are so very light that
they are visually unseen or the dog simply does not visually have them.
There is also a very
uncommon "full" or "extreme" wire coated Rottweiler. This dog has the
hard, coarse coat but it is not a proper flat coat. It stands off the
body (a little or a lot). It may or may not have grey (salt)
hairs scattered. This is accompanied by full furnishings (furnishings
appear in one or more of these locations: beard,
mouth line/mouth corners, near canines, above eyes at brows, nose
bridge near eye corners, under eye, cheeks, chest, feet, toes, backs of
legs), although they may vary in length with some full wires
having quite long
furnishings and in some other's the furnishings are longer in some
areas of the body while
barely
seen in other areas.
IF a dog will
be
bearded or have other visible furnishings, it usually does not appear
until 5-6 months of age. The wire furnishing
gene can be all but invisible, Or the
dog can have a slight , moderate or heavy furnishings in 1 or more
locations.
See the wirecoat page for full
details, information and modes of inheritance as well as info on using
DNA testing.
Red
(and other color) Coats
In general the
"theory" that red/tan (and maybe blue/tan) Rottweilers
"could" exist is valid. because Rottweilers and Greater Swiss Mountain
Dogs are very
closely related and blue/tan and red/tan occurs with frequency in some
lines of GSMD. HOWEVER the reality is that since the mid 1900's the
Rottweiler has been bred solely for black/tan discarding all other base
colors including sable. That said it is "possible" that some older
lines "could" harbor the recessive blue/tan or red/tan (but NOT sable
as that is a dominant) and I have in fact seen red/tan dogs out of both
import and domestic parents.
HOWEVER unless there
is DNA proof of both
the parentage of the litter AND the parent's parents, I am inclined to
believe the pups are more likely mixes between GSMD, Doberman or other
breed where those recessive colors are far, far, far more common.
In almost 30
years in the breed dealing with both US and Euro/import lines I can
tell you that I have seen/heard of exactly FOUR verified purebred
red/tan,
ONE blue/tan and one black pigmented white. That is it!
In verified Rottweiler
parantage occurances, these less
common recessive genes only occurs in a few lines. Both parents
have to carry the gene
for it to appear. Off color coated dogs should never
be bred as these colors were removed (as best as possible) from the
breed towards the beginning of the breed history.
Vitiligo
affected
Dogs affected with
Vitiligo are NOT blue merle.
NO merle
gene exists in the breed, nor EVER did.
Dogs with vitiligo (as
in humans) have an
autoimmune disorder that affecteds the pigment cells.
click
on the below image for a full size reproducible poster
Rottweilers
are capable of many different vocalizations and some of them are very
similar except the body posture/attitude defines what each is in many
cases. As an owner of a Rottweiler you MUST learn what your dog is
saying both vocally AND body language wise in order to interpret
exactly what the vocalization means. EVERY dog is an individual and has
different tolerences and likes
Some of the sounds
these dogs make are
a Whooo (like a howl and a grumble combined in a happy rising tone and
body), singing (a lilting rising grumble also in a VERY happy tone and
body), grumble, growl, assorted barks etc ALL of these can be expressed by both
a happy, aggressive, stressed and upset dog except the whoo and singing
which are almost singularly happy noises.
Right off I'll say
Rottweilers do NOT
purr. NO DOG does. They are physically incapable of purring.
What they can do is
grumble which can
sound like a purr. The trouble here is that the grumble TYPE is DEFINED
by the dog's body language (eyes, ears, muscles etc). a grumble
technically IS a growl but used in a more social communicative fashion,
call it a step below a real growl (not in volume but in intent)
SOME Rottweilers DO
grumble when happy
but this would be accompanied by soft relaxed muscles, relaxed ears,
squinted happy eyes and possibly a wagging tail. I've had Rottweilers
more than 27 years and I will flat out say that Rotts who grumble when
relaxed and happy are a minority. I've had one yes but they are not at
all common (although many Rotts DO grumble in happiness when rolling on
their backs etc I'm not talking about that-almost all do that- I am
talking about happy grumbles while standing/sitting and being patted,
hugged etc)
Rottweilers also
grumble in
conversation to tell the person touching them that they don't feel like
doing this right now, or they are in a pissy mood or the person is
approaching a limit line. Some Rottweilers are just grumpy about
everything and "discuss" it the entire time you are doing whatever -
these dogs are called talkers. The body language in these cases is
slightly different. The eyes might be staring straight ahead but open,
the head may be turned away, the body may be slightly (or more) stiff,
the ears may be back.
Talkers, talk for
various reasons:
because they feel you are taking liberties, or because you are applying
too much social pressure are the main reasons
If you cross the
limit line the
grumble may continue and the dog may stare AT you, OR more often the
dog will switch to a quick growl and head toss where they hit you (or
try to) with the side of their slightly open mouth. If you continue on
in a clueless fashion the dog may then bite you with restraint (or not
depending on the dog and it's level of stress) to make you quit
YOU MUST NEVER
punish a grumble (or a
growl) because they are an important bit of communication. If you
punish them they go away and then you end up with a dog that "bit for
no reason" which is not accurate, you simply deleted the dogs step 1
and 2 in communication to you
I am not saying
back off and let your
dog do anything if they grumble because then you create a monster who
grumbles/growls to make you go away and let them do anything
I am saying you
must know your dog and
their body language and know what they enjoy and what they dislike or
find stressful. Some dogs LOVE hugs, cuddles and laying with their
owners head on their sides while others find that to be far too much
social pressure and it stresses them to the point of snapping and still
others think such things are way over what they consider acceptable
liberties.
YOU need to learn
through watching the
dog's body language (eyes, ears, muscles etc) to determine if the dog
enjoys this activity, tolerates it well or dislikes it but is letting
you do it as long as they can stand it through respect... until they
can't take it anymore
If you
need to do something you know your dog will not like and they will
"talk" through the whole thing (nails etc) keep one hand on their head
so you have warning if they start to whip their head around. If your
dog has extremely low tolerence for such things teach them to wear a
muzzle. Vets are not fond of talking/grumbling dogs and will be more
relaxed treating such a dog if it is muzzled. They live in dread of the
words "oh he's just talking" because talking can lead to a head smack
or a bite if the vet crosses that invisible line
When purchasing a new dog or
puppy, make sure you and the person you are obtaining this dog/puppy
from follows the laws, even if the dog/puppy is free or a gift.
If obtaining the dog/puppy from
someone (breeder OR individual) within your own state, then make sure
you know what laws your state has regarding such transfers.
If obtaining the dog/puppy from
an animal shelter, make sure you know where the dog/puppy originated
from as in many cases dogs/puppies that originate from another state
have different paperwork requirements and different health risk
exposures than those originating from inside your state.
If obtaining the dog/puppy from
a rescue group, again make sure you know where the dog/puppy originated
(for the reasons above) AND make sure the rescue group is properly
licensed in the state it is based in.
If
obtaining the dog/puppy from
OUTSIDE your state (breeder, individual, shelter or rescue group), make
sure you know the laws of your state regarding bringing dogs cross the
state line (importation to your state). Additionally new Federal laws
require USDA licensing for SOME breeders of puppies bought sight
unseen/shipped among other new Interstate regulations. (the regulations
are complex, but in general if the breeder has 4 or less intact females
and the litter was born there no license usually required. If you
want to wade through them see APHIS USDA
Rules)
If obtaining the dog/puppy from
OUTSIDE the U.S. make sure you know BOTH the laws of your state
regarding the importation of a dog/puppy AND know the Federal laws
regarding importing a dog/pupy from another Country. The FEDERAL laws
changed in August 2014 making this more complex!
Below is an abbreviated law overview for the state of New
Hampshire as well as some links for puppies/dogs originating from
outside the U.S (including those from Canada).
TITLE XL
AGRICULTURE, HORTICULTURE AND ANIMAL HUSBANDRY
CHAPTER 437
SALE OF PETS AND DISPOSITION OF UNCLAIMED ANIMALS
Transfer of Animals and Birds
Section 437:1
437:1 Definitions. – In this subdivision: I.
"Animal shelter facility" means a facility, including the building and
the immediate surrounding area, which is used to house or contain
animals and which is owned, operated and maintained by a duly
incorporated humane society, animal welfare society, society for the
prevention of cruelty to animals, or other nonprofit organization
devoted to the welfare, protection and humane treatment of animals, and
also a public pound for the housing of strays or a pound operated by
any person, excluding veterinarians, who contracts with a municipality
to serve that function. II. [Repealed.] III. "Commissioner" means the commissioner of the department of agriculture, markets, and food. IV.
"Pet vendor" means any person, firm, corporation, or other entity that
transfers 25 or more dogs, 25 or more cats, 30 or more ferrets, or 50
or more birds, live animals or birds customarily used as household pets
to the public, with or without a fee or donation required, and whether
or not a physical facility is owned by the licensee in New Hampshire,
when transfer to the final owner occurs within New Hampshire, between
July 1 and June 30 of each year. Pet vendor also means any person,
firm, corporation, or other entity that transfers amphibians, reptiles,
fish, or small mammals customarily used as household pets to the public
in quantities set in rules adopted by the department, with or without a
fee or donation required, and whether or not a physical facility is
owned by the licensee in New Hampshire between July 1 and June 30 of
each year. Nothing in this paragraph shall be construed to alter or
affect the municipal zoning regulations that a pet vendor shall conform
with under RSA 437:3. V. "Transfer" means transfer of ownership of
live animals or birds from any person, firm, corporation, or other
entity to a member of the public.
Source.2017, 156:233, eff. July 1, 2017. 2019, 346:297, 302, eff. July 1, 2019.
Section 437:2
437:2 Declaration of Policy. –This
subdivision establishes standards for the regulation of animal health
that are consistent with the pattern established throughout statute by
the general court. Animal health regulation shall focus either on those
conditions that pose a threat to public health or that would require
regulatory intervention to protect the economy of the state, or both.
Source.2017, 156:233, eff. July 1, 2017.
Section 437:3
437:3 Requirements. – No
pet vendor shall transfer animals or birds without a license. A pet
vendor shall apply to the commissioner for a license, giving such
information as the commissioner shall require. The application shall
include proof that the zoning enforcement official of the municipality
wherein any facility is to be maintained has certified that the
facility conforms to the municipal zoning regulations. The application
shall be accompanied by a non-refundable $200 fee. All licenses shall
expire on June 30 of each year and be subject to renewal upon
submission of a new application. No licenses shall be transferable. A
pet vendor licensed under this subdivision shall: I. Maintain in a
clean and sanitary condition all premises, buildings, and other
enclosures used in the business of dealing in live animals or birds
customarily used as household pets. II. Submit premises, buildings
and other enclosures to unannounced inspection by department employees
or local animal control, law enforcement, or health officials at
reasonable times. III. Maintain, subject to inspection by the
commissioner, his or her agent, local officials, law enforcement, or
any member of the public, a proper record in which all live animals or
birds customarily used as household pets obtained or transferred shall
be listed, giving the breed, date the animal was obtained and
transferred, and from whom the animal or bird was obtained and to whom
the animal was transferred. Such record shall also show the microchip,
leg band, or tattoo number of each animal or bird, where applicable.
Animals or birds that do not bear such identification shall be
identified by recording markings, a physical description and any other
information as the commissioner deems necessary to identify such
animals or birds. IV. Keep records of all animals or birds intended
for transfer indicating identification, point of origin, and recipient,
and shall submit said records to the commissioner upon request. V. Abide by such other rules as the commissioner may adopt to control disease.
Source.2017, 156:233, eff. July 1, 2017.
Section 437:4
437:4 Refusal to Issue; Revocation of License. – The
commissioner, after notice to the licensee and opportunity for hearing,
as set forth in the rules adopted under RSA 437:9, may deny an
application or revoke a license for any of the following reasons: I.
The applicant or licensee violated the statutes of the state of New
Hampshire or of the United States or any rule adopted by the
commissioner pursuant to this chapter; II. The applicant made false or misleading statements in his or her application for a license; III.
The licensee knowingly transferred any animal affected with a
communicable disease except as allowed under RSA 437:5 and RSA 437:8,
II; IV. The licensee ceased to operate the business for which the license was issued; or V.
The applicant or licensee held any similar license issued in another
jurisdiction which was revoked or suspended by that jurisdiction as a
result of engaging in conduct prohibited by RSA 437 during the
preceding 5 years.
Source.2017, 156:233, eff. July 1, 2017.
Section 437:5
437:5 Prohibition. –No
licensee under this subdivision shall transfer, other than to a
qualified veterinarian or licensed animal shelter facility, any maimed,
sick, or diseased animal or bird other than as permitted under RSA
437:8, II nor shall any licensee treat inhumanely any animal or bird in
his or her care or possession or under his or her control.
Source.2017, 156:233, eff. July 1, 2017.
Section 437:6
437:6 Health Management; Dogs, Cats, and Ferrets. – I.
Medical treatment and use of controlled drugs on any animal or bird
under the care or possession or under the control of any licensee other
than a veterinarian may be administered only under the direction and
supervision of a veterinarian for the purposes of this subdivision. II.
Within 14 days of transfer, the transferee of a dog, cat, or ferret
from a licensee may have the dog, cat, or ferret examined by a licensed
veterinarian selected by the transferee and, unless said examination
indicates the dog, cat, or ferret to be free of disease, the transferee
shall be entitled to substitution or, at the transferee's option, a
full refund of the purchase price of the dog, cat, or ferret, if
applicable, upon return of the dog, cat, or ferret to the licensee
within 2 business days of said examination, accompanied by the
veterinarian's statement that the animal is not free of disease.
Source.2017, 156:233, eff. July 1, 2017.
Section 437:7
437:7 Exceptions. –The
license provisions of this subdivision shall not apply to breeders of
dogs that do not meet the definition of pet vendor in RSA 437:1,
veterinarians, or the transfer of livestock or poultry.
Source.2017, 156:233, eff. July 1, 2017. 2019, 346:298, eff. July 1, 2019.
Section 437:8
437:8 Health Certificates for Dogs, Cats, and Ferrets. – I.
For purposes of this chapter, an official health certificate means a
certificate signed by a licensed veterinarian, containing the name and
address of the entity transferring ownership of the dog, cat, or
ferret, the age, gender, breed, microchip number, tattoo number, ear
tag number, or physical description of the dog, cat, or ferret, and the
certification of the veterinarian that the dog, cat, or ferret is free
from evidence of communicable diseases or internal or external
parasites. A list of all vaccines and medication administered to the
dog, cat, or ferret shall be included on or attached to the certificate. II.
The original of the official health certificate accompanying the dog,
cat, or ferret offered for transfer by a licensee shall be kept on the
premises where dogs, cats, and ferrets are displayed, and made
available for inspection by the department, local officials, or a
member of the public upon request up to one year after the animal has
left the facility. The public shall be informed of their right to
inspect the health certificate for each dog, cat, or ferret by a sign
prominently displayed in the area where dogs, cats, or ferrets are
displayed. Upon transfer of a dog, cat, or ferret, that animal's health
certificate shall be given to the transferee in addition to any other
documents which are customarily delivered to the transferee. The
transferee may accept a dog, cat, or ferret that has a noncontagious
illness, or feline leukemia virus or feline immunodeficiency virus,
which has caused it to fail its examination by a licensed veterinarian
for an official health certificate. The transferee shall sign a waiver
that indicates the transferee has knowledge of such dog, cat, or
ferret's noncontagious medical condition and then submit such waiver to
the licensee who shall send a copy to the state veterinarian. III.
No person, firm, corporation, or other entity shall ship or bring into
the state of New Hampshire, to offer for transfer in the state of New
Hampshire, any cat, dog, or ferret less than 8 weeks of age. No person,
firm, corporation, or other entity shall offer for transfer any cat,
dog, or ferret less than 8 weeks of age. IV. Once a dog, cat, or
ferret intended for transfer has entered the state, it shall be held at
least 48 hours at a facility licensed under RSA 437 or at a facility
operated by a licensed veterinarian separated from other animals on the
premises before being offered for transfer. V. Animal shelter
facilities, as defined in RSA 437:1, I, are exempt from the
requirements of this section relative to transferring dogs, cats, and
ferrets except that: (a) All animal shelter facilities shall have on
premises a microchip scanner and shall maintain a file of recognized
pet retrieval agencies, including but not limited to national tattoo or
microchip registries. (b) Where an owner is not known, all animal
shelter facilities shall inspect for tattoos, ear tags, or other
permanent forms of positive identification and shall scan for a
microchip upon admission of an unclaimed or abandoned animal as defined
in RSA 437:18, IV and prior to transferring ownership of an unclaimed
or abandoned animal. VI. No dog, cat, or ferret shall be offered for
transfer by a licensee or by any individual without first being
protected against infectious diseases using a vaccine approved by the
state veterinarian. No dog, cat, or ferret shall be offered for
transfer by a licensee or by any individual unless accompanied by an
official health certificate issued by a licensed veterinarian. No
transfer shall occur unless the transferred animal is accompanied by a
health certificate issued within the prior 14 days. The certificate
shall be in triplicate, one copy of which shall be retained by the
signing veterinarian, one copy of which shall be for the licensee's
records, and one copy of which shall be given to the transferee upon
transfer as provided in paragraph III. If an official health
certificate is produced, it shall be prima facie evidence of transfer.
The signing veterinarian shall provide a copy of the health certificate
to the department of agriculture, markets, and food upon request.
Source.2017, 156:233, eff. July 1, 2017. 2018, 175:1, eff. Aug. 7, 2018. 2019, 306:11, eff. Jan. 1, 2020; 346:299, eff. July 1, 2019.
Section 437:9
437:9 Rulemaking Authority. – The commissioner may adopt rules, pursuant to RSA 541-A, relative to: I. The information required from an applicant for a license as a pet vendor; II. The health and sanitation standards to effectuate the purposes of this subdivision; III.
Information required to be maintained in records of pet vendors
regarding identifying features of animals or birds obtained and
transferred; IV. Notice and hearing on the refusal to issue or the revocation of a license; V. Setting limits for reasonable daily boarding and care costs for animals confiscated under RSA 644:8, IV. VI. Any other matter the commissioner may deem necessary to carry out the provisions of this subdivision.
437:10 Penalty. – I.
Any pet vendor who transfers live animals or birds customarily used as
household pets in this state without having a license to do so as
required by this chapter shall be guilty of a misdemeanor. II. In
addition to the penalty under paragraph I, any pet vendor who violates
any of the provisions of this subdivision or rule adopted under it may
be subject to an administrative fine levied by the commissioner, not to
exceed $1,000 for each violation.
Source.2017, 156:233, eff. July 1, 2017.
If you are a rescue group
operating in N.H. you must be licensed, even if your facility is not in
N.H. (RSA#437:1)
For a complete breakdown of rules applying to rescues and how to chose
one in NH see the two articles on this page
If YOU are importing a puppy
from another Country be aware that the rules have changed and unless
from a "Rabies free" Country the puppy has to have a rabies vaccine at
12 or more weeks old and cannot be shipped to the U.S. until 30 days
post vaccination (along with the usual health certificate rules etc).
Puppies from Rabies free countries have to be at least 8 weeks old. https://www.cdc.gov/importation/bringing-an-animal-into-the-united-states/dogs.html
IF YOU are adopting or buying a
puppy from a shelter, group, broker, breeder etc here in the U.S. That
imported the puppy from outside the U.S. then the puppy has to be at
least 6 months old, be rabies vaccinated at least 30 days prior to
importation (along with the usual health certificate, vaccine etc
requirements) https://www.federalregister.gov/articles/2014/08/18/2014-19515/animal-welfare-importation-of-live-dogs
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